Autumn at the Oakmont Farmers Market

Cross-posted from McDuff's Food & Wine Trail.

With the vernal equinox looming large, I think a seasonal market update is in order.

Greens, both lettuces and crucifers, are back. Fall squash, even pumpkins, are ready. And root vegetables – potatoes, sweet potatoes and red beets – are becoming staples.

Now certainly reaching the end of their long run this year, I was surprised to find a fairly broad selection of tomatoes still at this week’s market. Perhaps I shouldn’t have been surprised though, after the intensity of flavor in the batch of heirlooms I picked up a week earlier. Regrettably, I didn’t manage to snap a picture of the lovely composed salad they were destined for at my friend’s wedding but I did save a decent shot of a smaller, slightly less diverse batch I picked up back in August.

The fruit selection has been one of the surest meters of seasonality throughout the year. The last couple of weeks have seen the departure of peaches and all but the last plums with the corresponding arrival of a growing variety of apples and pears. And Asian pears are rolling in as well. Regrettably, North Star Orchard’s decadent, vanilla and butterscotch laced Ichibans (which I wrote about here), came and went in only one week. But their crisp, sweet Hosui are still in full swing.

Tasting Thunder:
Speaking of North Star Orchard, co-proprietor Ike Kerschner is apparently beginning to pursue his dream of becoming not just an artisanal orchardist but also a fruit breeder. One of his first ventures in fruit genetics, a grape variety dubbed “Thunder,” appeared at the market for the first time Wednesday just past. It’s a perfect sign of the autumn harvest season. Blue-black berries, thick skinned and bearing seeds, give a blast of robust flavor sparked by peak ripeness, good acidity and just a hint of bitterness. If you’ve been looking for a table grape that actually tastes like something more than diluted Welch’s grape juice, you might want to catch some Thunder.

Tasting Childhood:
Some of my clearest recollections of childhood revolve around the simple pleasures of food. Distinct among those memories is the taste and smell of fresh pressed apple cider, purchased at roadside farm stands on the trip home, up Route 29 in central Virginia, after late summer visits with my grandmother. That memory resurfaced recently, kindled by the arrival at the Oakmont market of honest, fresh pressed cider from Fruitwood Orchards Honey Farm. Available in pint, half-gallon and gallon jugs, it’s the real deal: sweet, rich, cloudy, a little chunky – wholesome goodness.


A bit of the autumn harvest from Fruitwood Orchards

Recipes: Eggplant Souffle and Apple Cider Onion Sauce

Eggplant Souffle and Apple Cider Onion Sauce

Eggplant Souffle
This is Lauren Feldman’s family recipe for Eggplant Casserole. This was her grandmother's recipe, her mom made it while she was growing up, and now it is a family favorite!

1 large or 2 small eggplants
2 eggs
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1/2 onion, chopped fine (though Lauren likes coarsely chopped)
Salt and pepper
3/4 cup shredded cheese (Lauren uses cheddar)
1/4 cup melted butter (or a bit less)
3/4 cup cracker crumbs (Lauren uses bread crumbs here too)
Any seasonings you want to add (Lauren suggests oregano and basil)

Pare eggplant. Boil in salted water - Drain. Mash. Add eggs, milk, bread, onion, salt, pepper, cheese – and then blend. Place into greased 1 1/2 quart pan. Combine butter and crumbs. Sprinkle on top. Bake at 350 for 30 minutes.
Lauren typically adds 50% more ingredients, dishes the eggplant mixture into 2 pie pans, and eats one that night and the second one the next. It is a great 'make ahead' dish!

Apple Cider Onion Sauce
This sauce can only be made with fresh, high-quality and unadulterated apple cider such as Fruitwood Orchards’ because the sauce is cooked down and any off or chemical flavors will be very obvious. It’s very adaptable and can be used as a sauce or marinade with many meats and vegetables. I use it to coat hams, for braising duck breasts, chickens, sweet potatoes, carrots, etc…. you get the picture: it’s really versatile! And like many of my recipes, it can be adapted easily.

Ingredients:
1 large Vidalia or other sweet onion
3 to 4 cups best-quality no-chemical apple cider
Spices are up to you. I’d avoid salt completely because you are going to concentrate the sauce, but whole black pepper, bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, cloves (go easy on cloves!), a slice or two of an orange or lemon, a bit of balsamic vinegar, other fresh or dried herbs such as sage or rosemary, a touch of mustard… a favorite old sock, your tenth grade yearbook, a teaspoon of compassion, a smidgeon of first love…. whatever you feel best suits your meal and mood. OK, were you paying attention? Since it’s going to be reduced it is important not to add too much of anything – the flavor will become very concentrated.

Process:
If you prefer a clear sauce, simply slice the Vidalia; if you prefer a chunky sauce dice it finely. Place the cider and the onion together with your aromatics in a 2 quart stockpot over low (and I do mean LOW) heat. Stir occasionally and allow to cook down to ¼ original volume (this will take a while – be patient). When the sauce is thickened to your liking either use as is (if you want it chunky) or put through a sieve or chinois to remove the solids.

Recipes: Honey-Roasted Beet Salad and Butternut Squash Soup

Honey-Roasted Beet Salad and Butternut Squash Soup





Honey- Roasted Beet Salad
This is a lovely salad for fall because roasted beets add a solemn, grounded flavor to the spicy exuberance of fall greens that reminds us that the harvest is upon us.

Ingredients:
1 ½ lbs. medium sized beets
Vegetable cooking spray
2 medium red onions, cut into wedges
4 Tablespoons honey, divided
2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ c. currants or raisins
3-4 Tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts
Salt and pepper, to taste

6 cups of a lettuce and greens mixture (mesclun or other mix)

Directions:
Simmer the beets in water (to cover) for about 15 minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and peel beets. Cut into fourths. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Line a pan with aluminum foil and spray with cooking spray or wipe with a paper towel dipped in olive oil. Arrange beets and onion on pan. Drizzle with olive oil and 2 tablespoons honey. Roast at 400 degrees until beets are tender, about 40 minutes, and the transfer the beets and onions to serving bowl.
Combine remaining 2 tablespoons honey, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 6 tablespoons olive oil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste (note: you could also add some mustard to this salad dressing if you wish). Drizzle this mixture over the beets and onions and toss. Add currant/raisins and walnuts; toss again with the greens and serve.

(6 servings)

Butternut Squash or Pumpkin Soup
I’ve been making this soup for many years; I developed it after a friend returned from Africa raving about pumpkin-peanut soup but since that time have used variations of it to create French, Italian, Thai and even Persian-style pumpkin soups. This version combines elements of African and Thai soups and is delicious. It seems that practically every culture uses pumpkins and squashes for soups and curries, since they are so easy to grow, easy to store, easy to cook and so good for you. Every fall I buy lots of edible pumpkins and butternut squash and store them in the basement – we eat fresh pumpkin all winter long!

Ingredients:
1 medium sugar pumpkin, skinned and cubed, or one large butternut squash
Oil
2 medium onions, chopped
Garlic to taste
Stock (vegetable, chicken, or beef)
I can (14 ounces) Unsweetened coconut milk
2+ tablespoons peanut butter
2 bay leaves
Salt, pepper, and chili to taste
Seasonings: cardomom pods, cloves, or cumin

Directions:
In a stock pot cook the onions and garlic in oil until soft. Add the pumpkin, coconut milk, and stock until pumpkin pieces are covered. Add the peanut butter and all the spices and simmer until thick and mushy. Remove bay leaves and cardamom before serving. You can also put the soup in the blender for a smoother consistency.

Cilantro-Yogurt Topping

1 cup nonfat yogurt
1-2 cups chopped cilantro, keep some aside for garnish
Garlic and black pepper to taste
2-4 fresh jalapeno chillis
Unsalted sunflower seeds to thicken mixture

Mix in blender and then swirl on top of the soup in individual bowls.

Variations:

1. Substitute vegetable, chicken or beef stock for the coconut milk.

2. Omit the peanut butter, chilli, and middle-eastern seasonings and use sage and white pepper instead, pick out sage leaves, put through the blender, and use a swirl of cream or yoghurt at the end to consolidate the texture. A roasted-red pepper topping would be good with this (same as above topping recipe except use roasted red peppers in place of chili and cilantro).

3. Other thickeners can be used: day old rice, etc. A nice version might be made with Italian roasting spices and old bread (toasted and/or fried in olive oil – or just toasted under the broiler with a bit of olive oil on top).

Recipes: Tuscan-Style Bison Ragu and Melon Agua Fresca

Tuscan-Style Bison Ragu and Melon Agua Fresca

Tuscan-Style Bison Ragu

Ingredients
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 celery rib, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1 pound ground bison meat
1 cup dry white wine
8 fresh sage leaves
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup whole milk
Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano for garnish

Process
In a wide and heavy flameproof casserole, over medium-low heat, melt the butter with half of the olive oil. Add the celery, carrot and onion and sauté until golden, stirring occasionally (about 5 minutes).

Heat the rest of the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and sear the meat in a single layer, a little bit at a time, then stir the meat into the casserole with the vegetables. Add the wine, tear the sage leaves by hand and add them, then add the nutmeg. Season the ragu with salt and pepper. When the wine has evaporated (about 4 minutes), add half the chicken stock and all of the milk and simmer at a very low temperature, covered, for one hour. Check occasionally, adding more stock if the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the pan.

Meanwhile, heat up a large pot of boiling water and cook penne or another sturdy dried pasta until al dente, then drain and transfer to a serving bowl. Add the hot ragu, top with Parmigiano and serve.

This recipe is from La Mia Cucina Toscana by Pino Luongo (Broadway Books) and is available for sale at Jessica’s Biscuit: http://www.ecookbooks.com/index.html. It has been altered slightly from the original.

Melon Agua Fresca
This is an easy way to use up those halves of melons that seem to lurk in the ‘fridge. It’s also a delicious, healthy and easy alternative to sugar-laden fruit juices, sure to delight adults as well as children.
Ingredients
Melon (Cantaloupe, Watermelon, Honeydew; one or a mix will work)
Freshly-squeezed lime juice
Sugar
Fresh Herbs (use your imagination: basil, Thai basil, lemon verbena, mint, peppermint, sorrel, even very small amounts of strong-flavored herbs such as parsley, rosemary and oregano, if you like them!).

Process
Cut the rind from the melon, cut the interiors into chunks and process the fruit in a blender until liquefied. Add the lime juice and sugar to taste (for instance, you might use the juice of one lime and one tablespoon of sugar per half cantaloupe). Next, add your herbs; you’ll have to do this to taste as well. Basil, mint and lemon verbena leaves make a delightful addition; use one alone or several together. Blend with the melon juice until the fresh herbs are reduced to smallish specks in the blender. If the juice is too thick add water, then chill, stir, and serve.

Recipes: Chicken Cacciatore and the Bellini Cocktail

Chicken Cacciatore and the Bellini Cocktail
This recipe was suggested by someone at the market as a perfect way to highlight the in-season vegetables and Lindenhof Farm chickens. I didn’t get your name but thank you – a perfect recipe for this time of year! This Chicken Cacciatore recipe is originally from Bon Appétit (March 2005); the recipe has been altered from the original: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/231738
Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, coarsely chopped (scant 4 cups)
8 ounces crimini (baby bella) mushrooms
1 very large onion, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
3 cloves garlic, sliced
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons Sherry wine vinegar
1 4 1/2- to 4 3/4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces, excess fat trimmed
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary, divided
1/2 cup dry red wine
2 to 3 cups diced tomatoes with their juice
1 cup low-salt (homemade, preferably) chicken broth
1/3 cup thinly sliced basil
2 tablespoons drained capers
12 ounces gemelli or penne, freshly cooked
Preparation

Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine tomatoes, mushrooms, garlic and onion in large bowl. Add 3 tablespoons oil and vinegar; toss to blend. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Spread vegetable mixture in single layer on large rimmed baking sheet. Roast until onion slices are golden brown and all vegetables are tender, stirring frequently, about 50 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.
Sprinkle chicken with salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon rosemary. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large deep ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken and sauté until golden brown, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to bowl. Add wine to skillet and boil until wine is reduced by half, scraping up browned bits, about 1 minute. Stir in diced tomatoes with juice, then the chicken broth and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 10 minutes to blend flavors. Return chicken to sauce in skillet. Place skillet in oven and roast uncovered until chicken is cooked through and juices run clear when pierced with knife, about 25 minutes. Remove skillet from oven. Stir in roasted vegetables, remaining 1/2 tablespoon rosemary, half of basil, and half of capers. Simmer over medium heat until vegetables are heated through. Season with salt and pepper.
Place pasta in large shallow bowl. Top with chicken and sauce. Sprinkle remaining basil and capers over.
Note: I made this dish with a few modifications. First, I had no mushrooms so I added two large patty pan squash (3/4 inch dice), one red bell pepper and one green bell pepper (also ¾ inch dice) to the roast vegetables instead; they worked perfectly and were delicious. I didn’t stir them at all, either. I also used more garlic – 5 cloves, cut into rough quarters. Instead of cooking a whole chicken, I cooked chicken thighs, about half of which had the skin removed. I used more basil than called for and would suggest a handful of fresh parsley; some hot pepper flakes wouldn’t be amiss either. This recipe could benefit from more wine and less stock; there was little wine flavor and it would have been welcome. I simmered the vegetable and chicken mixture on the stove top while the pasta was cooking, which was a nice way to decrease the liquid and intensify the flavor; it was simmered for approximately 25 minutes altogether. The Happy Eater pronounced it a success.

Bellini Cocktail
(The perfect tipple while anticipating dinner!)

Ingredients:
The juice and pulp from one peeled and mashed ripe white peach.
Prosecco or Champagne, chilled

Process:
Place one or two tablespoons peach pulp and juice in the bottom of a champagne flute and fill the glass with Prosecco. Enjoy!

(Hint: a very good Prosecco (at a good price) for the Bellini is available at Moore Brothers’ Wine Company: Bele Casel Prosecco di Valdobbiadene: http://www.wineaccess.com/splash/moorebros/new_splash.html; also, this cocktail can be made non-alcoholic by use of a tart apple juice or seltzer water in place of the wine).

Gazpacho Recipe

Gazpacho
This recipe was created by chef Geraldine Ferraro of the Four Swallows Restaurant on Bainbridge Island in Washington. It has been altered slightly from the original, available at Epicurious: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/239209

1 cup tomato juice made from mashing a large ripe tomato and squeezing out the seeds and skin
1 (2-inch) piece baguette, crust discarded and cut into 1-inch cubes
15 very ripe medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 cucumbers, peeled and roughly chopped, plus 1/2 cucumber finely diced for garnish
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons Spanish smoked paprika**
1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 red bell pepper, finely diced
1/2 small red onion, finely diced
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

** Spanish smoked paprika is sometimes labeled hot Pimentón or hot Pimentóón de La Vera and is available at some grocery stores or online at spanishtable.com.

In small bowl, pour tomato juice over bread cubes and let soak until very soft, about 30 minutes. Transfer to blender and purée until smooth. Add tomatoes, roughly chopped cucumber, garlic, 2 teaspoons salt, and paprika and purée until very smooth. Strain through fine-mesh sieve into medium bowl, pressing on solids to extract all liquid. Discard solids, return liquid to blender, and add 1/4 cup vinegar. With motor running, slowly add 1 cup oil in slow steady stream and blend until fully incorporated. Transfer gazpacho to airtight container and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

In medium bowl, toss together finely diced cucumber, bell pepper, onion, ground black pepper, and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon vinegar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Ladle gazpacho into bowls. Spoon chopped vegetable mixture into middle of each bowl, dividing evenly among bowls. Serve immediately. Makes 10 servings.
Epicurious, August 2007
Geraldine Ferraro, The Four Swallows

Food Miles, Food Costs, and Food Politics

The Farm Bill will be re-authorized later this year; it is renewed every 5 years. Few Americans seem to know about this important piece of legislation and even fewer understand how it works or what the costs represent. The costs are significant, and more importantly, truly shape how each American eats by fostering and promoting certain kinds of agricultural spending that then determine what sorts of foods are available - and at what prices - to citizens.

Here are two You-Tube examples of the issues. They are amusing and informative - enjoy!

Farm Bill:

http://www.FoodBattle.org

And Food Energy Costs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4RCyxgz97g


Cheers,
Janet Chrzan, Market Co-Manager

It's Asian Pear Time

Actually, today was the second week that Northstar Orchards and Fruitwood Orchards Honey Farm both brought beautiful arrays of Asian Pears to the market. I enjoyed one from Northstar for lunch today, diced and served in a salad with shaved fennel and toasted walnuts, dressed with good olive oil and a splash of orange juice. I swear the asian pear tasted like a good small-batch bourbon: butterscotch, caramel, vanilla and fruit flavors like a cross between the sweetest apple and crunchiest pear you've ever eaten. Don't miss out if you haven't tried them yet. Yummy stuff.

cheers!
David
McDuff's Food & Wine Trail

Tomato Ragu Recipe

This recipe is one of the most useful for dealing with a surplus of mid-summer vegetables. It can be made – indeed, it should be made – in large amounts, and then can be canned or frozen for future use. Only the broad outline of the recipe is going to be provided; like many other recipes in this Oakmont Farmers Market newsletter, the idea is to provide a solid and basic recipe that can be adapted as needed to utilize seasonal market farm products. The recipe will provide an outline of amounts, but those are ultimately up to you, as is the ingredient list. What this recipe provides is the cooking process that guarantees a good result; I have made variations of this recipe for many years and each and every one has been delicious, although each and every one differs based on what is available at the farmers market.

Ingredients

Aromatics:

4 (or more, if you wish) cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 large onions, diced
2 or 3 carrots, peeled and cut in a ¼ inch dice
2 or 3 stalks of celery, diced
2 pounds of Italian sausage (optional; can be omitted for a vegetarian sauce)
Olive oil for sautéing
3 bay leaves
Salt and pepper
Herbs: you can use dried or fresh herbs, but if using the latter make sure that you add them at the end of the sauce-making, otherwise they lose their flavor. I prefer a mixture of dried and fresh, and use dried oregano, thyme and rosemary with fresh basil and fresh parsley. Be careful of the amounts of the dried herbs, since they are stronger in flavor and can overwhelm the dish. Two teaspoons of oregano, one teaspoon of rosemary leaves and one-half teaspoon of thyme should be sufficient. Then add a half-cup of chopped basil and a quarter-cup of chopped parsley about 5 minutes before serving.

Vegetables:

Tomatoes – several pounds of fresh tomatoes
A mixture of vegetables from the market: zucchini, green and red peppers, green beans, eggplant, etc. You decide the amounts of each depending on the flavors you prefer in your stock. For instance, I prefer to have fewer strong-tasting vegetables (peppers) and more neutral ones (zucchini) in order to highlight the flavor of the tomatoes. I would use the following proportions, depending on what looked good at the market:

3 or 4 medium zucchini
4 Japanese eggplant or 1 large or 3 small purple globe eggplants
2-4 medium-size sweet peppers
1 quart (or 1 pound) green beans
6 or 7 pounds (or even more!) fresh tomatoes

Process

1. Prepare your ingredients in the order you will use them, except for the tomatoes and the eggplant, since they require a cooking step before they are added to the sauce. Skin, seed and chop the tomatoes before you prepare the pasta sauce. To skin tomatoes, drop them into the pot of boiling water for about a minute. Lift out with a slotted spoon and cut into the skin with a sharp knife; you should be able to then peel the skin from the flesh very easily. Cut in half and squeeze gently with the cut side down over the sink; the seeds and interior liquid will pop out. Then place on your cutting board and chop into a one-inch dice. Put in a large bowl and set aside until you need them. For the eggplant, cut into a ½ inch dice; if you are using Japanese eggplant you can easily do this by slicing them lengthwise into quarters and then cutting them across in ½ inch increments. If using the larger globe eggplant you can cut lengthwise into slices, then slices into ½ inch wide strips, then cut those crosswise into ½ inch dice. The globe eggplants, if they are large, will then need to be salted for ½ hour; this removes the bitter tannin flavors. If the purple glove eggplants are small they won’t have developed those flavors and you can omit that step. The Japanese eggplants are sweeter and do not require salting. You will need to rinse the salt off of the eggplant cubes and then dry the eggplant carefully before cooking. To prepare the eggplant for the ragu, sauté the cubes in olive oil in a large frying pan until they are lightly golden on all sides and then drain on paper towels.

2. Prepare your aromatics for sautéing. Dice/chop/etc. each of the vegetables, and cut the sausage out of the casing and chop into ½ inch cubes.

3. Heat a very large sauté pan or sauce pot on medium heat and pour about 3 tablespoons of olive oil into it; when the oil is warm add the garlic. Sauté for several minutes, but do not let the garlic become brown. You are aiming for a golden shade. Then add the onions and the carrots, and sauté until the onions are translucent (5 minutes). Add the sausage, celery, and bay leaves and sauté for a further 5-10 minutes, until the sausage is uniformly cooked through.

4. While the sausage etc. is sautéing prepare your other vegetables. Each should be cut into a ½ dice and set aside separately in bowls.

5. Once the meat is sautéed thoroughly, add the peppers and zucchini to the pan and sauté for 4 or 5 minutes. Then add the beans and the eggplant and cook for another couple of minutes. Finally, add your tomatoes and thoroughly stir the mixture. Make sure the heat is on medium and watch the pot to make sure the sauce does not boil too vigorously or burn; if the bottom of the pan burns your sauce will have a terrible flavor. The trick to a tasty sauce is slow cooking.

6. After the sauce has cooked for about an hour (you should stir it every ten minutes or so) add the dried herbs. Continue to cook on medium-low for another hour or two. You may need to add some fluid to the pan if the sauce becomes dry; you can add water, stock, or tomato juice. The sauce is finished when the top develops a sheen; it’s not an oily sheen, but a slight shine; it will also smell like an integrated sauce rather than of tomatoes and separate vegetables. At that time, add salt and pepper to taste, and add your fresh herbs. Give the whole pot a good stir and cook for a few more minutes.

7. It is now ready to be served over pasta or frozen, canned, or used as a sauce base for other dishes, from lasagna to casseroles. Enjoy!

Another Successful Farmers Market

The farmers market revival in the US has become a very successful juggernaut, benefitting local farmers and local farm economies as well as boosting retail sales and services in areas where farmers markets occur. The latest farmers market in the Philadelphia area is proving to be one of the most successful: the Headhouse Square market boasts 28 vendors (some of our folks from the Oakmont Farmers Market participate!) and has rapidly become the social event of the week for residents of Society Hill.

According to Rick Nichols of the Philadelphia Inquirer:

"Just past 10 on a gray Sunday morning, Week Eight for the Head House Farmers' Market was yawning awake, the White Lady peaches being propped primly on folding tables, sunflowers at sunny attention, turkey sausage sizzling in the centuries-old (and too-long-vacant) brick arcade that runs down the middle of Second Street at Lombard.

Almost 30 open-air markets have cropped up in the city in recent years. But this is another level of the game: Here you could see the impact of critical mass (28 producer-only vendors), the intersection of history and longing, the giddy joy of civic revival, and the opportunity to make - and if you aren't careful, to spend - some serious money.

"Great cities deserve great markets," recites Nicky Uy, the laid-back, on-site manager for the Food Trust, the market's nonprofit sponsor."

For the rest of the article, go to: http://www.philly.com/philly/entertainment/20070823_On_the_Side___In_Head_House__hearing_echoes_The_historic_farm_market_reclaims_its_glory_-_and_then_some_.html